The History of Purple Dye: From Royalty to Modern Day

The Birth of Purple Dye: Tyrian Purple

Did you know that wearing purple once meant you were one of the richest people in the world?

From ancient times to the modern era, purple has always been one of the most prized colors in human history.

So where did that first purple dye come from?

The earliest recorded use of purple dye was found to have originated back in the 15^th century BC in a city called Tyre on the coast of Ancient Phoenicia, (now Lebanon) on the Mediterranean Sea.

Tyrian purple was named after the city of Tyre, (one of Phoenicia’s key trading centers) where this dye was made.

Tyrian purple dye wasn’t an easy thing to create. It’s not like it was made from berries or crushed flowers. Instead, it was extracted from the mucus of spiny murex sea snails (Murex brandaris). Producing this dye was an incredibly labor-intensive and an expensive process.

It’s said that it took thousands of these spiny dye-murex snails to produce just one ounce of dye, and this is why it was worth more than gold at times. Because the process was so intense and time consuming, only the wealthiest could afford this color. Most importantly, when they wore this color, it set them apart from the peasants.

This insane process involved collecting thousands and thousands of spiny murex sea snails, cracking them open, removing the snail and then leaving them to soak.

After that, the snails were then sliced open, and a tiny gland was removed. The gland was squeezed until the juice was released from the gland into a basin and then placed it in the sunlight – ewww!

After some time in the sunlight, the liquid would turn white; from there it turned yellow-green, then green, violet, and finally a red that continued to darken. In order to obtain the desired color, the process had to be stopped at precisely the right time.

It makes me wonder who it was exactly that figured this out. Were they eating snails and got some on their clothes and noticed that it stained it red? Honestly, how did they figure out that the snail’s gland was what held the special juice? And then, to put it in the sun where it turned white and eventually into other colors. What a process!

Did you know that the first purple “dye” was actually more of a reddish-brown color than the variety of purples that we have today? They referred to it as “clotted blood”.

Image: Cloth Dyed from Different Murex Sea Snails

Depending on where these snails came from, the shades of Tyrian purple ranged from a reddish-brown, to bluish purple to deep purple. The shells coming from northern waters made a more bluish color than the ones found in the south which were more reddish.

Purple as a Status Symbol

Because of this complex process and the cost involved, Tyrian purple became a symbol of wealth and status. In Roman times, the color was so revered that it became a symbol of imperial authority.

Image: Artist – Alana Jordan

Only emperors, high-ranking officials, and some members of the elite were allowed to wear garments dyed in Tyrian purple. The Roman Emperor Nero (54 AD -68 AD) famously forbade anyone other than the emperor to wear the color, under penalty of death.

In Byzantine times (330 AD to 1453 AD) purple was even more strongly associated with royalty and high ranking clergy. The term “born to the purple” referred to Byzantine emperors born during the reign of their fathers, meaning they were legitimate heirs.

Image: Ghent Altarpiece Popes and Bishops painted by Jan van Eyck – 1422

The Decline of Tyrian Purple

With the fall of the Roman Empire (around 476 AD) and the destruction of the Phoenician cities, the production of Tyrian purple declined. By the end of the Byzantine period, the technique was nearly forgotten, and purple faded from use in Europe.

Image: Catherine the Great of Russia 1780’s

However, the prestige of the color persisted, even in its absence. Medieval European monarchs, for instance, turned to other sources for purple dyes, though none could match the brilliance or status of Tyrian purple. The unique thing about Tyrian purple was its ability to retain its color over time, even becoming brighter with age rather than fading.

The Invention of Mauveine: Purple’s Renaissance

Purple made a significant comeback in 1856, thanks to a chance discovery by an 18-year-old British chemist named William Henry Perkin.

Image: William Henry Perkin – Inventor of Mauveine

While attempting to create synthetic quinine to treat malaria, Perkin accidentally discovered the first synthetic dye, which resulted in a vivid purple hue.

Perkin’s invention of “mauveine” was a turning point for purple, making it accessible to people outside of royalty. The color quickly became fashionable among the European elite and helped usher in a new age of synthetic dyes.

Image: Charles Rees wearing a bow tie dyed with an original sample of Mauveine.

Purple in Modern Times

Today, purple is a color for everybody, and yet it still retains its association with luxury, creativity, and spirituality. These days, purple dyes are synthetic and can be produced easily and affordably.

It has been embraced by modern artists, fashion designers, and everyday people. Its journey from the ancient shores of Phoenicia to the present day is a testament to its timeless appeal.

 Conclusion

The history of purple dye is a story of innovation, transformation, and prestige. From the ancient Phoenician dyers to its widespread use today, purple remains one of the most enchanting colors in human history. Whether in the robes of Roman emperors or the fabrics of modern haute couture, purple continues to symbolize power, creativity, and sophistication.